some screen captures from the film. this was the most profound day of surfing i have experienced. i didn’t ride a wave, i just watched in awe. a sport that spurned a multi-billion dollar apparel industry was transmuted to its essential form. i remain grateful for having been there to see it.
04.12.13 /13:55
some screen captures from the film. this was the most profound day of surfing i have experienced. i didn’t ride a wave, i just watched in awe. a sport that spurned a multi-billion dollar apparel industry was transmuted to its essential form. i remain grateful for having been there to see it.
04.12.13 /13:54
some screen captures from the film. this was the most profound day of surfing i have experienced. i didn’t ride a wave, i just watched in awe. a sport that spurned a multi-billion dollar apparel industry was transmuted to its essential form. i remain grateful for having been there to see it.
04.12.13 /13:54

http://www.theonion.com/articles/find-the-thing-youre-most-passionate-about-then-do,31742/

03.20.13 /12:27
old news. the “olds.” when i went to melbourne for hraff i brought the trophies splinters won at the surfer poll awards and hawaii international film festival for best documentary. i gave them to andy abel and asked that they be kept in png - to be shared in vanimo and in the sapng archive in port moresby.
03.09.13 /16:37
from the kubrick exhibit at lacma. spent hours there. and could have spent more. what an inspiration.
03.08.13 /18:32
i spoke with several strangers about surfing over the last few days. they all, independently of one another, said they were “addicted.”
10.02.12 /23:51
for me summer ended on the beach, not in the water surfing. this was truly a memorable season. reset button was hit. corporeal attention. lots of surfing, hiking, sun and good eats. most importantly, lots of friends seen and made. here’s to being in the body.
09.08.12 /16:32
self-imposed constraints for the content of splinters existed but never for the process. those constraints ended up being liberating. in the future, i’d like to explore “commandments” for process. amen.
07.25.12 /13:49
06.03.12 /14:52
Canvas  by  andbamnan